By Giulia Scarpaleggia
S.forno is a comfy bakery with classic, bohemian vibes that’s positioned in Oltrarno, probably the most genuine neighborhoods of Firenze (Florence), Italy, not removed from the Arno River. It’s been a forno, a neighborhood bakery, for greater than 100 years. Angelo, a neighborhood baker, baked bread there each morning for 40 years till 2014, when he bought the bakery to Il Santo Bevitore, a restaurant a few minutes away from the bakery, for which he was already baking bread. It was Angelo who handed down his expertise to Rose Hélène Govoni, who’s now the top baker at S.forno.
From the surface, S.forno continues to be the identical store, a humble bakery whose entrance door is topped by the unique signal, panificio, courting again to the Seventies. Inside, they saved the unique cotto tiles and vaulted ceilings and furnished the bakery with classic components: a butcher’s counter, a goldsmith’s octagonal desk, bookshelves and stools with a patina of age, and a college blackboard the place you’ll be able to learn the each day specials.
Simply behind the counter, the bread loaves are neatly organized in baskets and on cabinets, their shades and textures a pleasure for the attention. Right here, yow will discover the flagship product of Tuscan gastronomy, pane sciocco, a white, crusty nation loaf historically baked with out salt, a bread that marries the native cheese and charcuterie fantastically. Together with Tuscan bread, S.forno gives a variety of loaves, from complete wheat bread and rye flour-and-cumin loaves to Pugliese semolina bread, seeded buns, and baguettes. There’s additionally a Florentine traditional, pan di ramerino, a delicate, sticky rosemary bun studded with raisins, historically related to Easter however now a fixture of the bakery. It makes for an incredible panino when filled with mortadella, Galaverna del Mugello (a neighborhood bloomy-rind cow cheese), and saba (a cooked, syrupy condiment created from grape should).
If you’re extra of a pizza individual, S.forno will tempt you with focaccia, Tuscan schiacciata doused in additional virgin olive oil, pizza with a number of seasonal toppings (should you’re there in late summer time, you’ll be fortunate to strive the fig and prosciutto pizza), and cecina, a skinny, savory chickpea pancake native to the Tuscan coast that’s naturally gluten-free and vegan.
Wish to sit for breakfast? Be fast to snag a barstool or one of many few tables by the entrance door. Order espresso and one of many bakery’s conventional choices designed to make you are feeling at house: pane, burro, e marmellata (bread, butter, and jam, a children’ favourite), pane e cioccolata (bread with chocolate), granola with contemporary fruit and yogurt (from the native Mugello farm Il Palagiaccio), croissants, ache au chocolat, and crostata. Pop in for lunch and also you’ll discover quiches bursting with greens, croque monsieur, crostoni with cheese and native charcuterie, panini made to order, and soups.
And let’s not neglect the candy aspect of S.forno, which takes each a world and a really conventional method. On one aspect, you’ll be able to have a style of tarte Tatin, apple truffles, fruit pies, frangipane tarts, cinnamon and cardamom buns, cheesecakes and chiffon truffles, brownies, and cookies. On the opposite, S.forno gives a correct number of conventional treats: torta della nonna, a pastry cream tart bejeweled with almonds; castagnaccio, a chestnut flour cake made with raisins and pine nuts; scarpaccia di Viareggio, a candy basil and zucchini cake from the northern coast of Tuscany; rice pudding tartlets (my favourite as a baby); grape schiacciata; and biscotti.
S.forno can also be a proximity or connoisseur meals retailer, the place you’ll be able to replenish on high-quality pasta, flour, bread crumbs (made in-house from the bakery’s unsold bread for a zero-waste method), cheese, eggs, canned San Marzano tomatoes, apple juice from Trentino, and artisanal jams and preserves.
After having fun with the beautiful baked items at S.forno, plan to spend time wandering the streets of this space, the place artisan workshops nonetheless share house alongside native shops, cafés, vintage outlets, wine bars, and family-run trattorias. It’s the right place to get misplaced and uncover Tuscan makers and flavors.
Discover extra about our travels by means of Italy in our July/August 2022 problem!